A Day of Rest aka Culture Absorption, Bargaining, and Shock Tasting

Woman at the market

Woman at the market First, let me start off with a correction: Excuse me for the generalization in my previous weather description… here in Burma (Myanmar), it is actually cold enough to where gloves during December through January! Although still cool in February, It begins to warm up representing a short spring through April which is the “rainy” month and quite “warm”. May is supposed to be VERY HOT.

Another note: Elbia -a very lively, smart and vibrant woman from Peru, who we met at the American Center is the person teaching the Salsa class. She also took it upon herself to be one of our chaperons for a couple of days. We’re are very appreciative of this. BIG UP and Much respect to her and her husband who gave me a quick lesson about Burmese food, how it is prepared, where and how it is sold. I may be getting a cook book…

Our other chaperone is Pont Pont, who has been our official escort and has taken us to great places (I’ll talk about later) and taught us about the people of Burma and Buddhist religion-which is the main religion of the people here. She has also connected us with group of young hip-hop artists, singers and dancers. She’s really made it a familiar place for us by teaching us about Burmese culture and the people. BIG UP to you and your family, Pont Pont!

So, it is Friday, April 4th, 2008 and even though the title is somewhat self explanatory… the experience puts a twist on everything!

We leave the highly populated borough in the city of Yangon aka Rangoon where our hotel is, and head downtown to the markets.

First off, kids are running up to me, in apparent amazement at my height and who knows what else…, pecking my arms and chest, telling me how “strong” I am, offering items to sell! Women with (each with a baby or small child in arm come up to me begging for money - one woman puts her breast in her babies mouth, seemingly to give the image of a family starving (which I didn’t doubt), but very quickly the impossibility of helping everyone comes to light.

So discreetly I pass on a few kyat here and there and keep it moving.

A “kyat” (pronounced CHAT) is the Burmese word for currency. “One kyat” is = 1000 which is equal to $1 (US). Currently, the best you can get on the exchange is 1,000.40 to $1.

On the streets and in the markets you’ll find everything from dried snake and smoked eel to the ceremonial-animal-skin-laden hats of the Naga people who live in the lush mountains north of Burma.

But no matter what you buy, and regardless of how persistent street vendors and merchants are… they expect you to “bargain” with them. Many want you to bargain with them for the sole purpose of practicing their english speaking skills.

Out of all we saw, the fine art caught my eyes first. I was most impressed by the charcoal drawings done by 9-12 year old kids! I purchased a series of postcard charcoal drawings from one of them and had him sign it! He became famous at that moment -saw a lot of smiles around him!

Although the Jasmine flower is popular, it is something that grows throughout the Southeast Asian region. It is the textiles the Burmese are known for! They are so well made with unique weave designs. Many of the merchants will make jewelry, clothing or paintings for you on the spot! This is quite favorable amongst women and men who purchase textiles for skirts or wraps. Check out some of the pictures… I hope they give you a sense of feel.

O.K., time for a break.

So a long day it has been… now we cap it with feast at this Burmese outdoor Barbecue Restaurant. Yeah!!!! And it was ALL THAT! First of all, about 50 tables are set up with chairs (they set up several for us/we had a crew) under a bamboo tent with florescent lighting - not the best-but I could see my food! Which was better than some of the fancy restaurants back home, who are always trying to contribute to my romantic evening by hiding the stuff they put on my plate, under the guise of “romantic lighting”….
Anyway, you go up to a long counter that has a section of vegetables and a section for raw meats and fish. You pick your vegetables to be sautéed (tasty!), then pick your meat and/or fish to be barbecued (you know me…). They had various “little” birds, chicken, lamb, beef, almost every part of the pig (highly popular over here),
duck, GIANT prawn, eel, small birds eggs (not sure which bird, but they were good…) and various fish!

We ordered all kinds of stuff and tried everyone’s food! It was the best! The only test I came across was when I was offered a piece of “smoked fermented tofu”… well, if you can imagine the taste of a sour and salty over cooked- high-fiber cereal-compressed in a square chunk, thinly sliced, that-has-been-sitting-in-sour milk-dried and smoked over a couple of months and still moist… that is the taste! And I didn’t know I was only supposed to take a tiny bit and put in my mouth… put the whole square in…. BEER PLEEEASSSE!!!!!!
But the delicious meal went on to heal my taste buds after that funny moment.

And now, back to the hotel for some rest to be sharp for Saturday’s workshop at the American Center.

Talk to you soon - B. Mack

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